Jargon Buster

A setting used for small stones, they are held onto the surface by small beads of metal raised from the ring itself. The setting can look quite traditional or antique.

Also known as rub-over settings the metal completely surrounds the outer edge of the stone offering a very secure setting and a great deal of protection. This is a particularly good setting for some coloured gemstones as it will prolong their longevity. Sections of the bezel can also be removed (a semi-bevel) to expose some edges of the stone. However, a well-cut diamond does not need light to enter from the sides so this kind of setting will not reduce the sparkle and fire of a diamond.

Brilliance is what makes a diamond sparkle. When white light shines on the diamond, a luminescent reflection is seen. A correctly cut diamond increases the reflection of the light and has a maximal brilliance.

A round diamond with 57 facets that are arranged in a certain way, has an optimal brilliance and light reflection.

A carat is often confused as the size of a diamond, when in fact it is actually the measure of a diamond’s weight. Put simply, the more a diamond weighs, the rarer the diamond is. The word carat is derived from carob. In ancient India gems were weighed with carob beans that all weighed exactly the same.

Popular for ring shoulders and also for eternity and wedding rings, this setting allows for a continuous method of setting multiple diamonds within a channel, creating a uniform flow. The stones must be calibrated to ensure they are exactly the same size. The stones are securely held in place within the channel and look particularly neat as there is no metal between the stones.

A diamond is given a grade to describe the level of inclusions or imperfections. The less imperfections, the better the clarity. All diamonds have inclusions. It’s what makes them unique like a fingerprint. And as we promise only the best for our customers, all our platinum and18 carat gold diamond rings are graded Si1 or above, so any natural markings will never be seen by the naked eye.

Very popular and can achieve a different look depending on the number of claws. Four claw settings have a modern and contemporary look, whilst 8 claw settings can look more traditional. For larger stones 8 claw settings offer more protection and a more secure setting, however the stone can appear crowded. The shape of the stone can also determine the number of claws required, for example a teardrop stone may require 3 claws. The tips of the claws can be shaped if desired. This type of setting can let a lot of light through the stone.

A diamond must be as colourless as possible. The colour grade describes the colour tones in a stone. D is perfectly colourless, which is rare and expensive. The colour scale goes from D to Z and indicates yellow and brown tones. It takes a trained eye to distinguish between shades that are close together, but an untrained eye see the difference between shades that are several tones apart with a little practice. Pink, blue, red, and green diamonds are also found, but they are very rare and expensive. These fancy coloured diamonds don’t follow the normal colour/price scale and are priced separately. We buy with our eyes, so when our customers admire a diamond for the first time we know it’s the colour that catches theirs. Diamonds range in colour from D to Z. At Beaverbrooks, we only hand select exceptional ‘rare white’ diamonds for our platinum and 18 carat gold ranges (G grade)

Refers to very small facet on the bottom of the pavilion, parallel to the table. It is also spelled collet and culette.

Cut refers to the reflective qualities of the diamond.

Behind every quality diamond is a skilled cutter. We take great pride in scrutinising the cut of each diamond we hand select, as only those most precisely cut perform with true fire, brilliance and scintillation.

Very Good Cut - A diamond with a very good cut has very strict requirements for depth and table percentages. These proportions give the stone a maximal brilliance and icy fire.

Good cut - A diamond with a good cut has acceptable but imperfect proportions. Its brilliance and fire is good, which makes it a good stone for jewellery.

Fair cut - A diamond with a fair cut has less than perfect proportions to make the most of the weight. This cut sacrifices the brilliance of the stone.

Poor cut - A poorly cut diamond has imperfect proportions that make it look lustreless. Diamonds with a poor cut are not recommended for fine jewellery.

The depth of a diamond is measured from the culet at the bottom, to the table facet at the top.

The depth percentage is the height of the diamond (measured from the culet to the table) divided by the width. The depth is crucial for an optimal brilliance and fire. When the depth percentage is too low, the diamond will loose its sparkle because the light is leaking out.

Describes the way a diamond breaks up a ray of white light into colour.

Describes the process of removing diamonds from concentrate.

Facets are the flat, polished surfaces on a diamond.

Fancies are attractively coloured diamonds.

Is a diamond of an attractive colour other than white that is suitable for gem use.

Refers to the flashing colours seen when a suitably cut diamond is moved, resulting from its dispersion.

Certain diamonds disperse a bluish glow when exposed to ultraviolet light. A diamond should not have strong fluorescence, but faint or moderate fluorescence does not affect the diamonds look. Some customers prefer a faint fluorescence, because it balances the yellow colour of some of the less expensive stones.

Is the correct name for a brilliant-cut diamond with 56 facets plus table and culet.

Is the skilled person who separates polished diamonds into sizes and quality grades by clarity, colour, and accuracy of cut.

The stone is set into the metal of the ring itself and is flush with the surface. It creates an effect of scattered stones and can also be used with fancy cuts. The stones are well protected as they do not protrude above the surface of the ring.

Inclusions are internal imperfections in a diamond, such as a spot or irregularity. Irregularities can include a fracture, a smaller diamond inside the bigger one, included liquid etc. In SI-3 clarity diamonds (or lower quality) the inclusions can be seen with the naked eye. In higher quality stones the inclusions are only visible under magnification. The fewer the inclusions, the better the clarity grade, the rarer the stone and the higher the price.

The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) is the process established in 2009 to prevent "conflict diamonds" from entering the mainstream rough diamond mark by United Nations General Assembly Resolution 55/56 following recommendations in the Fowler Report. The process was set up "to ensure that diamond purchases were not financing violence by rebel movements and their allies seeking to undermine legitimate governments."

Refers to the quality of a surface in reflected light. The lustre of a diamond is usually described as admantine lustre.

Word describes the process of adding the eight main facets to the top and bottom of a stone, which makes its table octagon-shaped.

A point is a means to express the weight of a diamond. One point is 1/100th carat. A diamond that weighs 0.50 carat weighs 50 points.

Scintillation is the amount of light that is reflected from the diamond as it moves. It is the combination of fire and brilliance.

Are the eight triangular facets around the table of a diamond that make it star-shaped.

Tension settings – this setting relies on the pressure of the metal to hold the stone in place, making it seem as if the stone is floating. Very modern and eye-catching, it will allow the maximum amount of light to pass through the stone. The ring needs to be quite thick to ensure the stone is held firmly and platinum is the best metal to use to its hardness and durability. Diamonds are probably the best.